Once upon a time, in the early Ordovician period, the mountain range now known as Scafell was created through a lengthy volcanic cataclysm, forging a series of high peaks and canyons of finest dolerite, a highly compact and abrasive igneous rock, some 3000m thick.

The resultant mountainous formation was some 1800m above sea level – almost twice as high as the current landscape. Over the subsequent 300 million years numerous ice ages, earth movements, weathering and freeze-thaw sculpted the landscape into something similar to that which we see today.

With a construction period so lengthy to dismay even the laziest modern contractor, this titanic process was over (for now) leaving us with England’s highest mountain and an outdoor playground fit for a king.

With such a fantastic landscape on hand one could argue that whilst there are many good reasons for trekking up the steep and scenic inclines of the Scafell massif, bouldering would not be one of them. I, on the other hand, would disagree. Rarely have I bouldered, or climbed for that matter, in a place with such a holistical brilliance – fantastic setting, wonderful panoramas, classic lines, cracking moves, awesome landings, Sampson’s Stones has got it all.

“Isn’t it a little inaccessible?” I hear you murmur. Yes it is, by perceived bouldering standards. The FRCC Scafell, Wasdale and Eskdale climbing guide quotes the walk-in timed at 75 minutes, which is fair estimate for a leisurely approach. It has been done in 38 minutes carrying two pads and kit, for those who like their stats. But let’s face it; it’s still a fair old trudge. Having said all that, I would argue that as many climbers are more than happy to slog up to the nearby formation of Esk Buttress, for a days sport, if an equally enjoyable day can be had bouldering in the same environment, then why is a day at ‘The Stones’ more or less worthwhile than a day at her larger more esteemed neighbor. Incidentally, the drive to the parking spot in the base of the valley isn’t exactly your archetypal Sunday drive, with the fastest method of approach tackling Britain’s steepest road, in the shape of Hardknott pass. But surely that’s worth the tick in its own right! Inset image: Space Curve V4/fb6c.

It may be a mission to drive to, a beast of a walk-in and even those who do go may not achieve all their pre-visit targets, however, despite the mountain (ho, ho) of obstacles I would still urge you to make the effort and pay these fantastic orbs at least one day of your time, as all the above plus points far and away outweigh any efforts put into getting there. This is a venue for those who love everything about bouldering, climbing, and more specifically the outdoors.

The following is a snippet – regarding making the most of a visit to Sampson’s Stones – from a small bouldering guide I recently produced to the area. The guide is linked at the base of the article. Inset image: Tachyon V9/fb7b+.

Since Sampson’s Stones was originally documented in 2003, I have spoken to numerous climbers who have visited the area, most with varying opinions on the venue. With this in mind, and my own experience from numerous visits, here are few pointers on how to get the most out of a day at this awesome, yet far flung, bouldering spot:

1. Pick a day when you know the weather is going to be decent, i.e. dry and not too windy.
2. Don’t go the day after an arduous climbing or training session.
3. Have a good nights sleep before visiting, and don’t go after a night out boozing.
4. Get an early start, especially in early spring or late autumn.
5. Take plenty to eat and drink.
6. Take a warm jacket; it can get quite nippy when you’re not climbing, even in summer.
7. When you get to the venue (after the walk-in), have a sit down, a rest and eat something before you start climbing.
8. Before you start climbing check out all the blocks and problems to find something that suits.
Remember, the difference between a good day and a crap day is usually some element of success.

Video
The short video below shows three of the harder problems in all their glory, and gives you some idea of the setting and ambiance of this great venue. Be sure to click the HQ button, on the embedded video, to view the 'high quality' version.




Summary
If you are British climber who classes themselves as something of a boulderer, to whatever level, then this is a venue that you must visit at least once.

Guides
The area features in the Rockfax Lakes Bouldering guide (published 2006), however to download my up to date free PDF guide click the linked banner below and choose from either the hi or low resolution versions in the top RH corner of the page.