Area & Style of Climbing
Kjugekull - Bouldering

Location
Sweden, South East (Europe)

Overview
A superbly picturesque granite bouldering area, featuring many fantastic fontainebleau-esque blocs and traverses (over 800 problems) on often huge glacially worn granite boulders. The area is situated in a deciduous wood, and in some parts overflows in to meadows and some hillside settings.

Best Time To Go & Conditions
The best conditions generally occur from late October through to March. It is possible to climb throughout the year, although the Spring, Summer and even Autumn can be pretty warm. The maximum rainfall occurs in late summer, and the minimum in early spring. The boulders dry quickly after rain, especially those in the meadows.


Getting There
The cheapest option is to fly from Stanstead to Copenhagen via easyjet.com, prices range from £50 return upwards. The nearest airport to the climbing is actually Malmo (Sweden), although, at the time of writing, none of the low budget airlines flies here.

Accessibility
The climbing is situated approximately 2.5 hours (by car) from Copenhagen (Denmark) airport so you will need a vehicle. Once at the campsite the majority of the climbing is only a 10 minute drive away.

Accommodation & Provisions
Ivö Camping is located on Ivön island, a few miles northeast of Kjugekull in the Ivösjön. The camping is roughly 100Skr per night (£8.50), alternatively you can rent a 4 bed cabin for 295Skr per night (£25). The main office opens from 10am-6pm all year round, and has a small shop containing a basic range of food and drinks. For a greater selection of products there are a number of larger supermarkets on the outskirts of Kristianstad, around 20km (15mins) away. As the camping is on an island there is a small car ferry to access it, this is free and operates pretty much 24:7.


Guide Book/s
Title: Kjugekull Med Mera / Price: €44.50 (Currently unavailable in the UK)

Grade Spread
Over 800 problems from Font3 to Font8a+, with best problems being in the mid-grades. A few of my favorite problems included, Moby Dick 7b+ (see image below), Sonic (7b+), Survivaldildo (6a+), Coluseeum (6c+), Mojo (7a+), and Monolith (7a+).


Useful Tips
The area is located on the edge of a Lakeland province of Sweden; as such summertime can bring an unwanted selection of flies, mosquitoes and other irritating insects.

If you’re partial to a tipple of higher strength alcohol (above 3.5%!) then it may be worth purchasing a bottle on the plane during your outward journey, as higher strength alcohol is much harder to obtain in Sweden than mainland Europe.

The area is also featured in a two decent DVD's. These give a good opportunity to see the area in all is glory and eye up the best lines before your visit. The DVD's are - Tjugo Pa Kjuge and Swedish Meatballs.

Current Local Weather Conditions