Area & Style of Climbing
Lourmarin – Sport Climbing

Location
France, South

Overview
A little known crag that is popular with locals and home to some outstanding routes on limestone that is unusual.

The crag was developed in the 1980’s but suffered from access problems for several years, while climbing was banned. Recently, the crag has opened but still does not appear in any guidebooks. The team from nearby climbing shop, Happy Boulder (www.happyboulder.com), are involved in bolting new lines and opening new sectors.

Image: Simon "Way Rad" Downing on Overdose (7b) Photo: Graham Cooper

Best Time to Go & Conditions
The best conditions are generally found in spring (March – May) and autumn (September – November). It is possible to climb throughout the year, although like most of southern France in the summer, it can get very hot.

Getting There
If you can be flexible about when you travel, flights can be as little as £0 plus taxes and charges - the cheapest overall price being around £30. The nearest airport to the climbing that has a budget operator is Nimes (about 90 minutes drive). This is a small airport but is well served by Ryanair.

Lourmarin crag lies next to the road (D943) just before you get to the village of the same name, coming from the North. It is about 1.5 hrs drive from Nimes and about 20 mins drive from Apt.

Accessibility
Having a vehicle is not essential, but it will make things easier. Getting to Apt is possible on public transport but would take much longer, and a car gives you the freedom to explore the other crags in the area easily. Once at the campsite in Apt the climbing is only a 20 minute drive away.

As you approach Lourmarin from Apt the crag becomes visible on the left – park on the small track to the right.




Accommodation & Provisions
The cheapest place to stay is “Les Cedres” campground, in Apt. This is conveniently located 2 minutes walk from the town centre. Basing yourself in Apt is a good idea as it gives you access to the other crags in the area - most famously Buoux which is only about 15 mins drive.

The price of camping is €2.50 per person per night plus €1.80 per tent.

The campsite is spacious and even has a small climbing wall and an excellent kitchen area, with fridge and freezer facilities. The showers and washrooms are also of a high standard.

Guide Book/s
Currently (2009) not in any guides, but the climbing shop in Lourmarin (see link below) have up to date photocopied topo’s available. These are free but please consider supporting the shop by buying any supplies as this helps fund the bolting (and the staff are very friendly too!).

For a download of an outdated topo click here.

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
The crag has over 40 routes and the best climbing is mostly in the 7’s and 8’s, and the quality of rock on the few 6’s is generally not so good.

My recommendations would be: Overdose (7b+) , Clairvoyance (7a+ /7b+), Suidose (8b), Sepultura (7b+).

General Tip/s
Being an esoteric venue, you need to be careful with the rock on some of the routes – it can be loose. Wearing a helmet is a good idea although the rock on all the best routes is generally solid.

The small town of Apt is well endowed with shops, bars and restaurants. The historic cathedral is said to be good for a rest day. The Provence region has a reputation for its food and, as you might expect in France, there is a very good Patisserie!

Lourmarin village is small and quaint with several very nice (and expensive) looking restaurants – I could easily loose an afternoon here drinking coffee and reading the paper!

The nearest climbing shop is in Lourmarin, which is about 15 minutes drive and is well stocked with all the essentials.

Useful Links
Flights: www.ryanair.com
Campsite: www.camping-les-cedres.fr
Gites: www.gites-de-france.com
Climbing store: www.happyboulder.com

Current Local weather Conditions