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OutDoor 2010 - New Gear Preview
It's that time of year again, when retailers from across the globe and more specifically Europe, descend on the small town of Friedrichshafen, on the shores on Lake Constance (Bodensee), in southern Germany, to fettle their merry ways through the multitude of halls and stands at the annual OutDoor show.
OutDoor 2010 - Full Gallery ![]()
For those unaware of this colossus of an event, it is the outdoor industry's summer trade fair (there is also a winter fair called ISPO in Munich), whereby suppliers, distributors and manufacturers can meet with and schmooze up the retailers of Europe, in an effort to persuade them that their offerings from the vast sea of outdoor activist orientated paraphernalia, is what they should be stocking for the next summer season.
Whilst the event's remit is to cover products applicable to the 'outdoor sector' of the retail market, this mantra is stretched to its loosest possible end, with the cross section of goods on show ranging from not only the latest technical innovations in walking, mountaineering and running, but right down to vaguely applicable fashion wear and gadgetry. Each retailer visiting the show will have his or her own applicable piece of this gargantuan OutDoor pie to view, depending on their business's target audience. As Rock + Run is predominantly a technical climbing and mountaineering store, the following are the highlights of next years kit from some of our main suppliers.
This is done in alphabetical order of suppliers, so if it seems a little over facing, simply select the brands you are most interesting in reading about by scrolling down to them...
Black Diamond
Packs – As most people are aware the US climbing brand Black Diamond (BD) have a vast pantheon of gear in their range, and each season they tend to focus on a key area in the range to overhaul. This year that was packs. Whilst most of the rucksacks in the range have had the usual feature tweaks and upgrades, the main talking point is that of the fundamental redesign of the frame and harness system used.
Essentially two new harness set-ups have been developed to cover the needs of a number of activities, from backpacking to climbing and mountaineering:
reActiV – This system utilizes BD's new 'SwingArm' shoulder strap technology, whereby the straps move in tandem with the activist's stride and arm movements. This is achieved by making the straps a one piece unit, which thread through a re-enforced sleeve at the base of the pack. In keeping with this theme the hip belt is also free floating, to enhance pack-activist synchronisation, however the belt can be locked in place if desired. The final piece in the reActivV set-up is the 'V-Lite' frame, which is a light 4mm 6061 aluminium frame, which is easily customizable as well as removable.
The design and engineering of the reActiV harness has been developed with lighter packs in mind, i.e. small backpacking and minimalist alpine/climbing bags. For heavier loads the other new carry system comes into play...
ergoActiV - The same basic principals are present in this system, however the tenant to improve load distribution and synchronization has been pressed upon even more so. The 'SwingArm' technology is again present, although it is now accompanied by a pivoting hipbelt. This is achieved by the belt being attached via a single Alan key bolt, which swivels in conjunction with the users movements. The belt can be made almost static (as with a standard hip belt) by the tightening of the bolt and a couple of small adjacent straps.
Whilst on the face of it these two systems may sound overly complex, they are in fact both achieved through some pretty simple (and clever) construction techniques, unlike a number of other systems designed toward the same end, developed in recent years (by other manufacturers). Loaded packs feel extremely well adhered to the body, and the designed synchronisation feels really good as you walk or move your arms through climbing-like planes of motion. How good are they are in the field? Well only time will tell, but hopefully we should be able to get some test packs in the coming months...
Hardware – In other areas there are a few updates across the hardware sector, with the most notable additions including: a new 'belay safe' HMS biner called the 'GridLock', which incorporates a clever little horn on the inside of the gate to help keep the biner the correct way up (as with a DMM belay master), without the addition of any losable parts. There is also a new range of avalanche probe style trekking poles, similar to Grivel's recent 'Trail Pole'. These seem well designed, lightweight and surprisingly sturdy, although as with the Grivel poles, at £90 to £120 a pair they aren't cheap.
Core Climbing
As a fairly new company Core have been consolidating their range over the last year or so, with only the odd addition of a few new hold styles, such as the extremely good micro jugs, which we have had in stock for a month or two. As such at the show there wasn't any major overhauls in their range, although they have developed a new 'rock finish' to accompany their existing 'Grit', 'Granite', 'Font' and 'Core' styles. Limestone is the new and obvious addition to their range, and all holds will be available in this finish within the next few months. The finish itself is really sweet, being smooth and super skin friendly whilst still giving excellent levels of grip... you'll even come across the odd embedded fossil!
DMM
Ropes – With the eagerly anticipated Dragon Cam project, successfully launched last year, you'd think DMM might have taken their foot of the gas for this year's show. However, the men and women from Wales have taken on, some may say, an even larger and more complex undertaking. That of ropes.
Unlike other companies, who have recently tried (and usually failed) at dipping into the rope market, DMM have been honest from the outset, in stating (via their 2011 catalogue) that this is a partnership with France's renowned rope manufacturer, BEAL, who will be constructing DMM's new rope range. So why should I bother buying a DMM rope when I can just stick with my trusty BEAL? You may say. Well DMM's argument is that their new rope range – consisting of 6 models, available in differing lengths and finishes – has been specifically designed by them, in conjunction with BEAL, to offer a selection of product tailor made for the UK climbing and mountaineering market.
I have no doubt that these will be good products, but can they take on the established brands, who have history, a greater range and more flexibility on price? That's a different story, and one only time will tell...
Hardware – As much of this years efforts have been put into the new rope range, DMM's hardware showing for 2011 seems to be one of consolidation. That said they do have a smart looking new biner, and subsequent quickdraw set, in the shape of the new Alpha Light (wire gate) and Alpha Trad (solid gate). This is a full size clean nose krab, which has all the usual tactile beauty of a DMM product, whilst offering solid bombproof longevity, flying in the face of the tiny, micro-weight generation of many modern biners recently released.
Edelrid
As mentioned in previous year's round-ups, Edelrid is becoming a global power on the climbing equipment front, due in no small part to the backing of the brands owner, the financially well endowed Vaude group. This security and funding, along with a solid contingent of active climbers at the helm, has allowed the brand to expand and develop their range, and become seen as far more than "merely" a rope manufacturer.
As with a number of climbing orientated fabricators, Edelrid sprouted a number of new product groups last year, including rock boots, crash pads and a more extensive harness range. As such this year sees much in the way of consolidation, however there are a number of noteworthy new products and updates.
Rock Shoes - The full range of Edelrid rock shoes launched for the first time last year, with initial reports seeming positive, especially around the entry level (Reptile) and top-end (Raven) price points. All the existing models remain, with the addition of three more shoes – a kids shoe (Crocy), a Velcro all-rounder (Typhoon) and a mysterious all-day comfort orientated product. Of the three the two adults shoes are the most interesting, with the Typhoon offering a performance strap-on shoe (essentially a de-spected Raven), ideal for sport climbing and bouldering, at the competitive price of around £80. So what of 'Shoe X'? Well, in the greatest traditions of clandestine shenanigans, this is a rock boot so secret it doesn't even have a name yet. In truth, if made, this will be a UK exclusive, designed to tap into the EVA heeled shoe market, popular with British multi-pitch trad climbers. However, the final decision on whether it will be manufactured or not will depend on interest and more specifically uptake from UK retailers, so watch this space...
Harnesses & Webbing – Also of note, was the expansion of the company's harness range, which has had the addition of three fine looking (and competitively priced) models, which may just allow the brand to compete more effectively with the established brands in this field.
The 'Smith', 'Creed' and 'Korben' harnesses are built utilizing laminate technology, as pioneered by Arc'Teryx a few years back. Unlike some other brands attempt's to use this technology, Edelrid have achieved a good quality finish and added some of their own design twists, including micro auto-locking buckles on the leg loops – which are almost unnoticeable when the harness is worn – and Hytrel belay loop protectors. So with prices ranging from £65 (single waist buckle harness) to £80 (double waist buckled with adjustable leg loops) they should be well placed to attack the other current market options.
On a similar if less exciting vein, Edelrid have also developed a new webbing which can be applied to all the usual applications. This 'Tech Web' as they call it, is a hybrid construction with a dyneema core and nylon outer. Giving dyneema levels of strength combined with the more hard wearing attributes and knotability [sic] of nylon webbing.
Evolv
As the Evolv rock shoe brand has established itself as a major player on the world scene over the last few years, creating a solid range of well selling shoes, they have on the whole stuck to the old adage “if ain't broke don't fix it” for the coming season, retaining most of their well loved models. They do have one interesting new development, in the shape of the new Shamen, which is a triple Velcro, synthetic performance shoe, partially designed by Chris Sharma, to sit in the Evolv 'Sharma Signature Range'. The video below shows Chris helping to design the 'Shamen'...
Five Ten
A larger than usual stand and expanding range shows the popularity of the Five Ten brand displays little sign of diminishing. As well as a number of less applicable (to us at least) new pieces of street and cycling footwear, there are 5 new rock shoes and a number of modifications and updates to next springs range. Without doubt the most interesting new shoe is the 'Arrowhead'. This combines many of the popular facets of the Anasazi Velcro, with an added level of supercharge – Anasazi heel and mid section incorporated with a toe box offering a 50/50 Anasazi-Dragon mix, to give an unbelievable feeling shoe! I tried these on, and despite being prototypes they felt like a superb and versatile foot tool. If you've finished drooling over that prospect, other new offerings come in the shape of the 'Hornet', a cross between the now defunct 'Project' and a 'Dragon', the 'Quantum', which replaces the 'Project' and incorporates a more toe-down profile and lacing, and finally the 'Blackwing', which is a flash looking Velcro version of the 'Dragon', available in both a men's and women's fit.
On the more standard footwear front, the 'Warhawk' is a souped up 'Daescent', featuring a padded tongue, nubuck upper and burlier sole unit. This comes in two colour-ways and also a women's specific fit. There is also a new white offering in the 'Freerunner', ideal for all climbers who miss their Reebok Classics.
Pricing
As you will know doubt be aware rock boot prices have increased greatly over the last few years, particularly from European manufacturers such as La Sportiva and Scarpa. Until now Five Ten have managed to hold their prices at a more static level – currently between £15 and £20 pounds less than the equivalent products of the aforementioned brands. Unfortunately, UK and global conditions being what they are this is not going to last, with most Five Ten products going up around £5 in autumn, and then a whopping £10 to £15 more next spring. The result of which means the consumer will be paying, for example, an RRP of £100 for Anasazi Velcros, come next March. Don't say we didn't warn you...
Mad Rock
It's seemingly yet another year of complete overhaul from Mad Rock, who have struggled in recent times to regain the initial surge of interest and users they gained through some good shoes, in their early years in business. Previous years redesigns and upgrades to the likes of Mugen, Hooker, and Frenzy have failed to rekindle the brand in the UK, and with perplexing and contradicting combinations of technology it's not hard to see where they keep going wrong. So why can't they you may ask? I guess maybe it works in the US market?
So what about this year? Well again there has been a complete redesign of many of the technical models, with the 'Hooker' range disappearing completely to make way for the 'Con-cept' and 'Con-flict' strap and lace-ups. The stepped sole for which Mad Rock has been (in)famous has been radically chamfered down, and the heel cup ribs have also been completely minimised. The 'Mugen' continues on, but again has been completely re-engineered, losing the stepped 'dual density' sole for a standard flat rubber affair, whilst again the heel ribs are minimised and the more aggressive slingshot heel design (rightly) returns to what is offered as an all-round technical shoe. This is also joined by a lace-up version which is fractionally stiffer.
Throughout the various changes in the range the two continuing winners have been the 'Flash' and kids 'Mad Monkey'. Fortunately these models remain unchanged, and are joined by a Velcro and lace-up entry-level pairing, in the shape of the 'Drifter' and 'Nomad'. Whilst these two shoes offer little that isn't available elsewhere, their keen pricing (£60) may well make them popular options...
Petzl
As you would imagine, those innovative little scamps at Petzl don't like to visit a major trade show without having some good talking points to proffer to the visitors, and right on cue they've come up with some fine appurtenances to their range.
This show's crown jewel, from Petzl's point of view, is the fantastic new 'Grigri 2', which is a much lighter, more compact version of the original device, and will now take single ropes down to a diameter of just 8.9mm! This was a long-awaited upgrade to their hardware range, but it looks like it was worth waiting for, nice work Petzl. Also on the hardware front, the swarve single pin gate 'Ange' biners and quickdraws, due out this winter, have been unfortunately set back to come out next spring, along with a neat belay development in the shape of the 'Universo' belay set...
Probably the next most interesting development, after the 'Grigri 2', is the introduction of the new 'Meteor 3+'. This is essentially very similar to the standard 'Meteor 3', however the new version is now rated to be usable across a multi sport spectrum – climbing, white water and cycling.
Red Chili
Continuing on from the success of their latest wave of rock shoes, Red Chili have added a number of new upper end products to the range. The popular 'Matador' gets a few tweaks in the shape of a redesigned toe rubber patch and more beefy Velcro straps. To compliment the original 'Matador', and for those who can tie their shoe laces, a lace-up version is also added to the range for Feb 2011. The 'Habenero' also returns after a sabbatical on the sidelines, although don't be fooled, this latest incarnation bears little resemblance to the old split leather model from back in the day. 'Habenero 2011', features a synthetic upper and rubberised toe box outer, along with speed lacing, a stiffened mid-sole and sling shot heel. This is apparently aimed at the Anasazi sector of the market. 2011 also sees the inclusion of a kids shoe ('Durango Nano') and an updated 'Sausalito' incorporating and encapsulated 'Impact Zone' heel.
Scarpa
No major overhauls or upheavals on the Scarpa UK front, however the eagerly anticipated 'Jorasses Pro GTX' should be available later this year, and at around £300 this looks like it should be a good, keenly priced successor to the well loved 'Freney GSB'.
Snap
Due to wranglings over the UK distribution of famed French crash pad brand, Snap, whether or not the products will be available in the UK next year is up for debate. But be sure to note, that if it is possible to retain the brand we surely will. As to new products, the Snap boys have launched a new range of packs, but more interestingly (from our point of view) they have created an 'air pad' similar in design (but not the same) as the Flashed 'Ronin' pad, which recently saw some positive media exposure across the web. Unlike the Flashed equivalent, the simplified design of the new Snap 'Wrap', as it is known, means that it may go some way to over come the main drawback of the Flashed product, that of the high price. If distribution rights are sorted, and exchange rates do not deteriorate, we may see this pad available in the UK for between £200 and £250, which is at least £100 cheaper than the Flashed equivalent... again, watch this space.
Sportiva
Much like Scarpa, French footwear specialists La Sportiva have little in the way of major changes to their 2011 range. Most notable is the addition of more race orientated – lower profile – member of the 'Crosslite' family, in the shape of the fine looking 'Xcountry', which will retail at a fiver more than its older sibling. On the rock shoe side of the business there are four rather unremarkable new additions, in the shape of the 'Python', a mid range slipper with a strap, the 'Jeckyl', a flat lasted and rather generic looking lace up, and finally two versions of the same shoe – Tarantula, a far eastern produced mid-range Velcro, which to be fair looks like a decent shoe at its £70 price point, and the TaRENTula, a beefed up rental version of the same shoe.
Wild Country
I guess the obvious starting point with regards to Wild Country's developments for 2011, would be the new 'Helium Cam'. The ever-popular Technical Friend has seen little in the way of a makeover for sometime, and with the likes of DMM's Dragon cams hitting the market this year, it would seem the boys from Tideswell have thought it was about time to hit the drawing board once again... The new 'Helium Cam's' feature forged lobes (as per the Dragon's), rather than the original milled versions of the existing Tech Friend's, as well as a redesigned trigger set-up, which is apparently both lighter and stronger than on the old Techy's.
In other areas there has been a myriad of updates and colour changes to biners and harnesses alike, and the inclusion of a burly sport climbing quickdraw, which offers a good hauling sling and the familiar wire-straight-gate carabiner combination, all at the competitive price of £17.50.
Finally, there is a slick new Ropeman Mk3, which utilizes a barrel to cam the rope, rather than the biner itself (as with the Mk1&2). This, according to Wild Country, makes the device a lot more efficient and effective on 'crapped up' ropes.
Roll on next year...
OutDoor 2010 - Full Gallery (32 product & show images) ![]()
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