Background
Over the last 20 years the Isle of Portland has been a consistently well known and well visited sport venue, offering over 900 'proper' bolted sport routes from f2 to f8b, as well as around 200 boulder problems. Located on the south coast of England, the Isle is connected to the mainland via the unusual feature of  Chesil Beach, an 18 mile natural 'barrier beach'. Originally the rock provided the island’s main industry through quarrying, with the stone used to repair St Paul's Cathedral in London and build the United Nation Headquarters in New York.

Image right:  The Good Life f5+. Photo: Steve Taylor. Page 265 of the Portland Guide book.

Nowadays, the compact limestone cliffs provide possibly the best sport venue for routes up to f7b in the UK. This small islet hosts six main areas all set above the English Channel, and each each offering a contrast in style, difficulty and length. Generally the climbing tends to be just off either side of vertical on jugs, crimps, pockets and glorious flow stone features.  

Grades and Route Recommendations
Portland is frequently referred to as the King of 6’s (although the 7’s aren’t so bad either) due to the vast amount of quality low-to-mid grade climbs. For a first visit I would head to Blacknor on the west coast, home to some impressive pitches on stunning flowstone formations. This is a great place to either start your sport climbing career, get lots of mileage in or work on a personal best. To get you started my recommendations would be: The Bolt Factory (4+), Slings Shot (5), Shit Happens, Actually (6a), Go with the Flow (6a), Ocean Drive (6a+), Burning Skies (6b+), The Unknown Solider (6b+), Turner to Stone (6c+), Portland Heights (7a), England’s Dreaming (7a+), Twangy Pearl (7b).

Image above: The author on Turned to Stone f6c+.

Conditions & Access
With climbing on both the west and east coast climbing is possible all year round, meaning sun or shade can always be found. The mild climate and minimal seepage make this a favorable destination when fighting our typically terrible British weather. This webcam from Weymouth looks out towards Portland and is a useful tool if in doubt . Unlike most sea cliffs, much of the climbing is situated well above the high tide mark, with only a few sectors being tidal.

Bird restrictions are variable on the island and are reviewed annually. Currently there is a permanent ban on the far end of Coastguard South. If unsure it is recommended that you check with the BMC website.  

Equipment
Twelve quickdraws and a 60m rope will be sufficient to see you up most of the routes on the island. It is rare for the routes to require a traditional rack and most of the classics are adequately bolted with stainless steel staples. Although not a necessity, I would recommend packing a clip stick especially if redpointing (available here). Portland has several choices of guidebook, the most up-to-date being the Climbers Club guide by Steve Taylor, Ben Stokes and Jimbo Kimber from 2008 - Greg Chapman’s handy review for this guide can be found here.

Image right: The author on the magnifcent Medusa Falls f7a.

Rest Days
Along with climbing Portland and the surrounding beaches are popular destinations for many outdoor activities including sea kayaking, windsurfing, sailing and kiteboarding. In fact this is where the watersport events will be held in the 2012 Olympics. On the other hand, those looking for a more relaxing time are also catered for with popular walks along the Jurassic coastline, chilled beaches and nearby shopping in Weymouth.

Useful Links
Local climbing news: www.dorset-climbing.com/word.php
Portland geology: www.soton.ac.uk/~imw/Portland-Isle-Geological
Nearby camping: www.dorsets.co.uk/accommodation/Portland/camping
Short Video: http://vimeo.com/9031465