A Wild Country Article

After a frustrating nights traveling, a lost brummie abandoning a misspent childhood finds himself on the final twisting road leading up to the bliss of Spanish climbing, Spain’s pride and joy, Siurana.

Sleepily gazing through the window of a Spanish taxi, an aspiring Ben moon finally catches a glimpse of what only can be described as Taj Mahal of climbing. The immaculate sun bleached rocks, sitting in the hillside, standing out like a brummie amongst scousers, effortlessly dominating the skylines and your thought processes with equal aplomb are a prize introduction to what Siurana has to offer.

Four years later and a further 4 trips, what is it that continues to seduce a now matured, better looking young man from arguably Britain’s most elegant, graceful city, known to most as Birrrrmingham.

Rich on his own Siurana classic 'A Muerte' - literally, 'to the death' - F9a...which has just had repeats confirming its grade and quality.

The ancient village of Siurana, situated above the old village of ‘Cornudella De Monstant’ offers a retreat from life, the chance to escape the city, pollution and congestion. The escapee is surrounded by beautiful untypical scenery, fresh mountain air, wildlife, climbers and cultures from all around the world, cheap wine, great food and, most importantly, the chance to sample some of the best pitches in the world, period.

Siurana’s wealth of all time classic routes is on par with the combination of Rod Stewart, Elton John’s and the Beatles number one hits, in simple speak, it does not get any better. Of all grades and styles, there are 4 starred classics to be had. The possibility of returning home with a truly mesmerising tick list is only limited by your ability, time and dedication.

The Siurana scene is thriving with keen climbers of all abilities, combine this with more crags than you can shake a stick at, and you have a place high on anyone’s trip list.

In fact, the only downside to climbing in Siurana is the somewhat stern grades. So, if you are searching for soft touches or ‘holiday grades', then you better go elsewhere. Like Buoux, Frankenjura and Peak Limestone, Siurana's stern grades mean satisfaction and rewards are only achieved by those prepared to put in the effort. Coincidentally, I am yet to meet a Yorkshire based climber in Siurana.

The climbing in Siurana is divided into two main areas, ‘village crags’ and ‘valley crags’. The Village crags are conveniently situated near Siurana's lonesome village and even more conveniently a mere 10 metres from the car park.

On your approach to the Village crags you will be offered the delights of the Can Melafots and Can Gan Dionis for a variety of pleasant routes in the 5’s 6’s and lower 7’s, not to mention a chance to get fully baked in the direct Spanish sun, whilst warming up. Pizza de Pinya (7a) stands out as an obvious classic, if only as a warm up for when heading down to the more major sectors.


Dropping down the steep ‘Indiana Jones’ trail, passing a few minor crags, the eager beaver finds himself approaching Siurana’s exquisite wall, sector, Can Piqui Pugui. It is here where the going gets tough, and the tough attempt to get going.

‘Campi’ as us tongue tied Englishmen lazily pronounce it, offers one of the most impressive overhanging walls Europe has to offer. Containing more colours than Da Vinci’s palette, and littered with every type of hold imaginable, Campi hosts an amazing range or french 7th and 8th grade routes, all with, rightly deserved, classic status.

Whilst any of the routes on this wall are more than worthwhile, a couple of mesmerising pitches await, including Delicatessen (7a+), Isadora Donde Esta (7b+), and Anabolica (8a). Tick any of those three and you will lower off smiling, having thoroughly earned as much Spanish wine as you can possibly consume.

Walking back up the hill at the other end you pass the opposingly angled Can Marges, it is here where you find pleasent 5’s and low end 6’s, on immaculate slabs, where, unlike it’s neighbouring Campi, footwork is the key to success here.

If your appetite isn’t satisfied already a short walk over the other side of the Valley leads the stubborn individual to the Valley crags.

The Valley crags, although only a short walk from the Village offer a very different setting. In a gorge layout without the water, several huge walls sear directly from the paths. Reaching over 40 metres, it is obvious why this truly magnificent stretch of rock has several world class routes. From the French 5+ (Espero Primavera) to 9a+ (La Rambla), there is enough climbing in this valley to keep all but the very best busy and, more importantly, satisfied for a lifetime.

From the road the first wall you encounter is Espero Primvera. Averaging over 30 metres in length, I daresay this is Siuranas best sector- which doesn’t really come as a surprise considering the routes it purveys. Sharing its name with the crag, Espero Primaver a - a 2 pitch 5+ - is truly fantastic, some say as good as they get. As is Remena Nena, a long technical 7a with a sting in the tail at the very top. Having climbed the latter routes, one is aptly warmed up for the tick of the crag. Mandragora (7b), is a monstrous pitch - a full 40 metres long - blasting up the beautiful orange streak on small edges keeping you on your toes right to the bitter end, an absolutely fantastic climb.

Moving around from Primavera you quickly reach the neck craning El Pati. If you found Mandragora hard then you best keep walking. With the easiest route here being 8a, there isn’t much for the average performer although it’s worth a look just to see the immensely steep, relentlessly long La Rambla (9a+). Being a contender for the world’s hardest route, it is no wonder why it denied the substantial efforts of several world class climbers - amongst others Alex Huber and Dani Andrada - until the young Catalan bred star, Ramonet Julian succeeded on re-writing the history books, not to mention the laws of physics, with his successful ascent.

Continuing past El Pati, sector, L’Olla soon approaches. Translated as 'the bowl' it doesn’t take a genius to see why, the immaculate wall, overhanging by 40 degrees, host’s some of the most aesthetic tufas known to man. With routes up to about 15 metres long L’ Olla is more suited to the boulderers amongst us; requiring more power than fitness.

The classic Pota the Elephant (7c+) is worth a look to see just how it got its name. As are the mega classics Bistec de Biceps (7b+), Yas o’vale (7c) and La Cara cue no Miente (8a+). The latter of which hosts one of the most impressive dyno’s I have ever seen.

However, it’s not always necessary to be firing on all cylinders when climbing at L’olla. On the right hand side of the crag are several nice wall climbs in the 6’s and low 7's - perfect for warming up, an easy day, or for a team with varied abilities.

If the above doesn’t quite make your finger tips sweat, it is worth noting that I have only just scratched the surface of what Siurana has to offer. Crags such as Siuranella South, Grau Des Masets and Can Toni Gros all contain incredible climbs and are definitely worth a visit.

All of the above crags and more are listed in Siuranas very own definitive guidebook. Named Guia d’escalades Siurana and written by local enthusiast Toni Arbones, this guide describes the climbs Siurana has to offer with clear diagrams, correct grades and several ‘off the beaten track’ crags of the utmost quality.

If you are still not satisfied, the region around Siurana (Costa Daurada), is quite simply littered with rock. Within 30 minutes drive are the superb, world class crags of Monstant, El Falco, La Mussara, Villonova d Prades and many others. For a brief outlay on what the Costa Daurada has to offer, I recommend purchasing the Rockfax Costa Daurada guide.

Accommodation
There are several places to stay in and around Siurana. Those lucky enough to have access to a car will probably be better off staying at the newly opened 'Monstant Refugio', situated near the public phone box in Cornudella. Here you can find internet access, private rooms and a bar serving food, with the added bonus of being a mere stones throw from Cornudella, which has several shops, cafes and a bank.

The cost of rooms varies but prices seem more than fair. Unfortunately, it is worth noting that Siurana is a good 45 minutes walk away, therefore without a car staying in Cornudella is an impractical option.

For those on a budget and especially those without a car, staying in Siurana itself is the best option. Siurana offers both a refugio and a campsite, both of which are pleasant enough.

The campsite - owned by local bolting machine Toni Arbones - offers basic camping facilities alongside more comfortable wooden chalets. Prices range from €6 per night for camping to €30 per night for the wooden chalets, these can sleep up to 4 people. Complimenting the camping facilities is the aptly named ‘camping bar’. Here you can find topo's, basic climbing equipment, food, drinks, climbing partners, friends and more.

Not surprisingly this is where the majority of climbers spend their evening, discussing epics, successes and failures, usually accompanied by some rather eccentric excuses.

The recently refurbished refugio offers dormitory style accommodation, with a communal cooking area, shower and toilets. Costing €10 a night it’s slightly more expensive than the campsite but offers a warmer, more comfortable environment and means that you do not have to bring your camping equipment. However, it’s worth noting that unless you like late nights, you may be better off camping for a little more privacy and tranquility.

Conveniently, Siurana is never deprived of friendly climbers making it a great place to socialise and an even better place to go alone without the worry of not being able to find people to climb with.


When to go
If you pick your crags wisely, it is possible to climb at Siurana and the surrounding areas all year long. However, the summer can get very hot meaning early starts and dropping your grades and the winter can get very cold, making it important to climb in the sun.

For the best conditions Siurana is in its prime in the months of Febuary to early May or September through November.

Getting there and getting about
There are two airports within close proximity of the Costa Daurada - Barcelona and Reus. Barcelona is a mainstream airport with flights from the majority of the major UK airports for as little as £30 return. Reus airport, on the other hand, is seasonal. It is open between March and the end of September and only offers limited flights form the UK. However, it is much closer to Siurana than Barcelona.

If you have a tight schedule or just have more money than sense then, more than likely you will find yourself renting a car. There are several car hire firms at both Barcelona airport and in Reus, offering cars from as little as £20 per day. A quick Google search should do the trick. However, if you are going for the true Siurana experience, any thought of car rental is not necessary, making the trip a very cheap option.

Fly - Car Option
From Barcelona airport, jump in your hire car and drive onto the E15 - direction Tarragona. Once at Tarragona follow the signs to Reus, once passing Reus take the N420 west, and after 8km, take a right on the C242 - direction Les Borges Del Camp. Follow this road for 21 km until you reach Cornudella De Monstant. Passing through Cornudella after about 800m take a right turn, signposted Siurana camping (take care not to take the first right turn signed ‘Panta de Siurana’ which leads to the Dam). Follow this road for 6km until you reach the camping on your right. For the Refugio follow the road a little further into the village, where you can see the Refugio on the top of the hill.

Fly - Bus/Train Option
From Barcelona airport, take the metro train or the bus to Barcelona Sants main station. From here take a train to Reus (taking about 50 minutes). Once in Reus, you can take a bus which runs a few times each day to Cornudella. From here you can either hitch or walk the last few km up the hill to Siurana. Alternatively take a taxi from outside Reus station all the way to Siurana costing a very feasible €45. Once in Siurana there is no need for car, so enjoy saving your pennies as others watch their money waste away on their hire car parked for the majority of their stay.