I think it's fair to say that over the last 5 years St. Bees Head has become recognised as one of the 'must visit' destinations of UK climbing, and more specifically bouldering. In spite of its isolated location, on the far western coast of northern Lakeland, the magnetic draw of this fantastic sandstone venue and its spectacular cliffs, which rise out of the sea like vast rust clad hulks, is all too apparent in the ever-increasing accolades the area receives throughout climbing websites, forums and magazines.

St. Bees Head, South Image Gallery

St. Bees' location combined with its history within Lakeland climbing has meant that despite the increased interest in the crags' almost infinite possibilities, this immense sandstone bastion is still only just stirring into life; and like a great beast awaking from hibernation, the full force of what it may eventually deliver is yet to be seen.

As someone who has climbed reasonably extensively across the headland and documented certain sectors for climbing purposes, I feel qualified to say that the task of documenting all the bouldering from south to north will be a monumental task. This fact in itself further lends weight to the argument that eventually this crag will be ranked amongst the most prolific venues in the UK, and possibly even Europe.

If Truth Be Told

Despite this Motherload of possibilities, the location, surrounding environment, bird restrictions and topography of the crags and boulders will hopefully always detract enough people to prevent the over saturation and environmental damage seen at some of Britain's other major bouldering destinations – and for me this adds to the appeal. For despite this heaven sent location, the intrepid climber seeking these new realms must – thanks to limited access points – trudge ever onward around the coast, judging tides and the weather, as he or she looks for the next Yellow Desert Scream or Lateral Mindset.

And so to the next chapter in this coastal epic: St. Bees Head - South.

Relating to the aforementioned history of the local climbing scene, bouldering has long been seen as a pastime not to document but to shroud in myth and secrecy, with historical circuits passed on in person but seemingly never spoken of away from the coast. As such discovering who did what and when has always been something of a Herculean task. So to the southern head, where no doubt thanks to its lack of 'proper' routes (due to more fastidious cliff face bird bans and less consolidated rock) the area is less known. Ironically, unlike its more famous northern sibling, the southern head is actually reached from the village of St. Bees, where a large 'Pay & Display' car park is situated on the seafront, only a few minutes walk from the first climbable sectors.

From what can be gleaned from the local cartels, it seems that although the area has been visited on and off throughout the decades nothing of note was climbed until 2001, when the unwelcome outbreak of foot and mouth made the area one of only a handful of crags you could visit in the whole of the Lake District National Park. Super active climbers of the time such as Al Wilson and Rob Fielding, visited the area and left their marks on various blocks, with the most noteworthy send coming from Wilson, in the shape of The Kraken, 7a+/V7. This is a superb sit down start to an already excellent arête, and in my view one of the best problems of its grade in the Lakes. The other most noteworthy ascent came from Michael Robinson who over the same period, in 2001, climbed 'Godzilla got the Dog', named in reference to an old flame, who after splitting with Mike took his faithful hound! Again this is a superb problem, graded 6c/V4, and is a highball arête master-class of unparalleled quality. Whilst these sends are the only specifics I have managed to dig out of the historical mire, it is likely that other active climbers of the time, Jim Arnold, Ryan Dempsey, Adam Hocking, Dave Birkett, Wes Hunter, to name but a few, will likely have climbed other lines which have since been re-recorded.

I first visited the area in the summer of 2003. Knowing nothing of the local scene or the goings on through foot and mouth, I arrived on an exploratory mission as the summer heat had got too intense on the inland fells and outcrops. It soon became apparent that despite the more spread out nature of the sectors, in relation to the convenient platform clusters of the northern head, this nearby southern realm offered plenty of scope for development. I climbed a handful of lines, the most notable being a striking arête at what is now known as 'The Cove' area. After climbing the line I broke a small (useful) crimp, with my foot when topping out leaving me unable to repeat the line. Leaving the crag a little despondent, despite a great day out, I vowed to return for another round with said 'striking arête'... little did I know that it would be over 8 years later before a rematch was fought.

Between 2003 and 2006 the Lakes bouldering scene, or perhaps more appropriately venue index, grew incredibly quickly. At some points through 2003 to 2004 it seemed that 'new' venues where being established on an almost monthly basis. With this furious development of Lakeland bouldering it was hard not to be swept up in the momentum and I found that the prospect of visiting places I'd already been would some how not supply the fix required to quench my thirst for new lines and new rock. As this initial cosmic expansion of new crags waned, it was time to start revisiting these recently documented areas, and start filling in the gaps.

For some reason the wealth of opportunities I'd initially identified on my original visits to St. Bees southern head were forgotten over the subsequent years, and it wasn't until sitting at the recently developed 'Old Buoy's Circuit', at St. Bees Head – North, last summer (2009), wondering where next to turn my attentions, that it suddenly struck me that I hadn't held good my promise to that 'striking arête'. The rematch was set.

With renewed and more focussed vigour I returned to St. Bees Head – South, in late summer 2009, to revive my acquaintance with an old adversary. His battle scar may have faded with time, but the jutting arrogant pose, of that 'striking arête', had lost none of its alluring draw. Round 1 of the rematch went to the local champion, as aided by the hot summer rays, his low right crimp delivered telling and abrasive blows to my fingertips, leaving me bloody and bruised but no less determined. Round 2 was a different story and went to the South Lakes contender. Powered by a cool breeze and an alpine start, the red giant was scuppered by quick feet and quickly floored with a huge telling lunge from the challenger, taken down in one the victory was mine and Killer Bee was born. Scores settled it was it down to business. Over the next few months I returned time and again picking off the best lines I could, whilst documenting these and other existing lines. Having now become fully acquainted with the headland and scoured the coast all the way to Fleswick Bay, I would say without a shadow of a doubt that the lesser known of the two heads is equally worth a day or two of your time.

Best Sectors

As I alluded to above, the crag is perhaps not quite as suited to the climber who likes everything to be in one spot, having said that 'The Cove' and adjacent 'Cryptozoo'  and 'Platform' sectors offer over 50 superb problems from 3/V0 to 7c/V9. These areas are not the nearest to the parking but offer the greatest concentration and grade spread available on the southern head. I have created a guide for the area which is available on LakesBloc.com, this is currently a select guide covering the best problems and areas. For the super keen there is also a Google Map, pinpointing every notable boulder, and relevant climbs, which has been documented.  

When To Go

As with the northern head this is a year-round venue, however also like its northern neighbour, the area can be a little wild through the winter months and the platforms can become slippy after prolonged wet weather and high tides. There are also bird bans in place during parts of the year, however provided you avoid the cliff top descent during these periods, this does not affect access to the bouldering. As a rule, fair weather climbers will appreciate the area the most during the spring and summer months.

Tides

All but the highest tides cause few issues, and most of the main areas can be climbed at during even high tide. That said, it is possible to get cut off from the initial areas if the tide comes in and you are at areas E, F, or G (see PDF guide on LakesBloc.com site). If you intend to climb at these sectors be aware of the tides times and heights. For tide times and other weather orientated details the BBC website proves quite useful.