Swiss Arete on Mount Sill is another High Sierra classic with a long walk. You can see the route from the road (395) but it looks a long way off and its difficult to work out the exact line of the route. The combination of glacial scenery, high altitude climbing on perfect rock and a remote setting make this a must do route.

Image: High on the Swiss Arete

When to go
Like the majority of back country routes in the High Sierra summer through autumn will be the time. However, the snow/rock gap at the foot of the descent gully can get tricky to cross late in the season and will probably require an abseil (rappel). On the other hand too much snow would make the top the descent gully difficult to negotiate.

Image: First light on the trail from Glacier Lodge.

Logistics
Although the approach is nothing like as long as Charlotte Dome you're going to have to be fit to bag this route in a day. Remember that you will be topping out at the summit of Mount Sill which is over 14,000ft. If you choose to camp there are numerous excellent bivi spot at the foot of the Palisades glacier but, you will need a bear proof container. Don't be fooled into thinking that bears don't go above the tree line. If they get the sent of food they will go almost anywhere to get it.

Stats
First Ascent: Dick Jones, Spencer Austin, Ruth Dyer, Ray Ingwersen, Joe Momyer 03/07/1938
Approach: 10 miles, 8 of which are on good trails followed by 2 miles of bouldery stuff. 5,300ft of ascent on the approach and another 700ft for the route.

My Notes
Climbed on 26/09/02 with Bob Banks. 12 hours from car to car.

Image: Mount Sill and the Swiss Arete

Fitness
You will definitely need some altitude training to at least 12,500 ft. Bagging non technical peaks between 11,000 and 12,000 feet is good early preparation. You are more likely to achieve your altitude target for that day if you are not carrying climbing gear or having to worry about technical climbing. Once you have some acclimatisation under you belt do at least one of technical route at around 12,000ft so you get the feel of what it's like to be rock climbing at altitude. Here are some some possible warm up peaks and routes:

Northeast Face of Laurel Mountain III 5.2 – This route looks dreadful from a distance but it is actually climbed on sound water washed slabs. There are a few short technical sections but you shouldn't need more than a few nuts, slings and a half rope. Don't go anywhere near this route if it looks like rain. Gets you to 11,800ft.

East Chute Basin Mountain III Class 4 – This is the mountain right behind the Buttermilks boulders. It has a short approach and some nice scrambling at the top. Gets you to over 13,000ft.

Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak III 5.6 – Not too high and not too long with a short approach. A good first route to do in the back country.

Approach
Park at the Glacier Lodge trail head and walk up past Third Lake. Check out the amazing Temple Crag on your left as you pass by. Continue up a broad spur on a good path to the foot of the Palisades Glacier. Skirt the base of Mount Gayley and finally climb steeply up to Glacier Notch. Watch out for rock fall coming off the loose flanks of Gayley on this last section. Gear up at the Notch.

Image: Approaching the base of the Plaisades Glacier with First and Second Lake below. Temple Crag is in shadow on the right.

The Route
Easy climbing up the crest of the arête to start, gradually steepening on huge bucket holds until you are forced around to the right side of the arête where a short 5.7 corner/crack leads to easier ground and a few easy pitches to the top.

The Descent
The descent gully is relatively straightforward but you need to be careful with loose rock. You descend the north west ridge of Mount Sill a few 100 yards looking for a small col and cairn that marks a line leading off down to your right. Some traversing and easy scrambling leads into the top of the decent gully proper. If there is a snow/rock gap at the base of the gully there is usually some rappel slings out on the left (looking out). Be aware that only other descent alternative is back around the west side of the Palisades to Bishop Pass which will probably take you two days and get you to a trail head no where near your car. See the guide book for a more detailed description.

The Rack
A light rack should suffice. Rocks 1-10 and a few cams medium to large cams. Bring a good selection of slings. The descent rappel is less than 25m so you can take a single rope.

Image: Low on the Swiss Arete

Clothing
Shorts and T shirt for the approach with some sturdy trainers. Conditions will vary on the route (obviously), but I climbed in some light pants and a thin fleece and had a windproof tied around my waist.

Tips
Fill up with water at the foot of the Palisades Glacier as supplies could be unreliable from there on. The trailhead is fairly low down, start early to avoid heat. If you want to go for it in a day you're going to have pre-dawn start anyway.

Image: The summit of Mount Sill with North Palisade behind.

Guide Books

My favourite Sierra Guide is 'The Good, The Great, And The Awesome' by Peter Croft. Not available in the UK. ISBN 0-9676116-4-4

Another good guide, if a little less inspiring, is 'California's High Sierra' by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler ISBN 0-7627-1085-3

A very detailed guide which is available in the UK, SuperTopo's 'High Sierra Climbing' by Chris McNamara ISBN 0-9672391-8-4