Some info and imaging courtesy of Petzl Sport

For those unfamiliar with the predominantly European pastime of Via Ferrata, this is a method of exploring the more exposed and less accessible parts of the greater ranges – and more commonly the Southern Alps – with little in the way of technical rock climbing equipment or knowledge.

The system focuses on protecting these high level footpaths, ridges and crags with fixed steel ladders and cables, which are in turn used as both protection and a means of ascent.

Inset: A mountain hut, these are an ideal means of accommodation, when on Via Ferrata trips, as they allow you to keep equipment to a minimum.

Via Ferrata, or Klettersteig as it’s know in the Germanic speaking parts of the Alps, originated in the Italian Dolomites and Austrian Tyrol during the First World War, to help enable troop movements through previously inaccessible or difficult to navigate geographical areas. In later and more peaceful times the network was taken over by mountain guides and used as a method of showing the inexperienced mountain lover the wonder of the high Alpine countryside. As the cables and ladders became ever more popular to guides and individuals alike the original networks were improved and additional more adventurous systems were built on previously virgin crags.

The Lanyard System
In times past, protagonists of Via Ferrata were advised to build there own Clip or Lanyard system using a length of 9 to 10mm dynamic rope and a pair of screw-gate biners, due mainly to the lack of specific products made by manufacturers and the presumption that the stability of the insitu equipment would counter any inadequacies in the mountaineers kit. In recent times, however, it has been shown, in rope test houses across the world, that due to the nature of the falls in Via Ferrata - that they are some of the most forceful in all forms of mountaineering - the system must incorporate a purpose built shock load reducing feature, or "ripper" as they are sometimes known. Most modern purpose built lanyards come with this as standard.

Use of the Lanyard

Image 1. With Y-shaped lanyards, the two Karabiners must always remain on the cable, with the gates opposed.
Image 2. Passing intermediate anchor points on the cable, where one of the two Karabiners must be unclipped, must be done with care.
Image 3. On difficult sections, you must not hesitate to take a rest on the short lanyard, to avoid reaching the point where the fingers open (a frequently observed phenomenon on Via Ferratas).

On difficult sections, do not hesitate to rope up. Don't forget that a fall on a Via Ferrata is always serious, even with the best energy absorbers...

In spite of all that is said about Via Ferratas (simplicity, accessibility, the fun aspect etc.), it remains a mountain activity, and what is more, takes place in a steep to vertical environment. A rope must always be in the pack, to complement the energy absorbing lanyard on difficult sections.

Rope Technique for Via Ferrata


The principle is the same as in climbing: the leader passes the difficult section at the head of the rope, and sets up a belay to protect his companions. Refer to the section on climbing techniques for information on belays. If none of the members of your party are competent in rope techniques, employ a professional to look after your safety.

Equipment Required
Helmet: If you are off to the Dolomites this would be a recommended, if perhaps none essential piece of kit - the Dolomites are renowned for their less than stable nature.
Lanyard System: An ideal option is the fully integral Petzl Scorpio.
Harness: A good quality lightweight Alpine style harness is ideal, such as the Black Diamond Bod or Black Diamond Alpine Bod.
Rope: Whist not 100% essential the option of a rope does increase your options greatly, especially if you traveling with less experienced people. A 30m 8 to 9mm dynamic rope is the best compromise between safety and weight. The Grivel Rando is a good option.
Belay Device: If you are taking a rope don't forget some kind of appropriate belay device.
Guide Books: It's always worth having a decent guide whatever you are doing in the mountains, we have a reasonable selection of Via Ferrata guides here.
Insurance: As with any adventurous holiday, always take out the appropriate level of insurance cover.