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Scarpa's Active Randing Explained
- Article
- 15 February 2013
- No comments
“The concept is as easy as nailing a piece of rubber to a barn door,” says Heinz Mariacher, Scarpa’s storied shoe designing prophet, or – more formally – climbing line manager. But don’t let his casual theorising about what he calls ‘Active Randing’ fool you. There’s more going on than Mariacher would lead you to believe.
Power Flapjack Recipe
- Article
- 2 November 2012
- 5 comments
Training Guide: Metolius Simulator Fingerboard
- Article
- 28 September 2012
- No comments
Rock Climbing in Ten Sleeps Canyon
- Article
- 13 September 2012
- No comments
Ten Sleep is dolomitic limestone, occasionally reminiscent of Euro rock but quite different most of the time. The greatest attribute is the profusion of deep pockets and in-cut jagged cracks which allow access to the steepest faces at relatively moderate grades. Some of the well weathered areas are similar to the welded tuff crags of New Mexico.
Remote Classics: Amethyst Pillar HVS 5b
- Article
- 17 August 2012
- No comments
Another Wet Weekend?
- Article
- 10 August 2012
- No comments
Fortunately for this year the summer monsoon season seems to be nearly over, soon to be replaced no doubt by the usual autumn deluge. Finding dry rock in the UK can be a bit of a dark art, and it is understandable that many head to the certainty of the indoor wall at the first sign of dark clouds on the horizon.
Font: Which Guide?
- Article
- 17 May 2012
- No comments
There is a plethora of information about Fontainebleau on the internet, from logistics information: how to get there, where to stay and when to go, to climbing information: which areas to go to, what problems to try. Rather than reiterating this easily findable information, the aim of this article is to give the reader a summary of the different guidebooks that are available in the UK.
Sicily Rock Climbing
- Article
- 10 April 2012
- 2 comments
Zen and the Art of Skin Maintenance
- Article
- 23 March 2012
- No comments
As with many subjects, there's an absolute wealth of information available on the internet on how to keep your skin in primo condition for rock climbing. However I believe that much of this advice is a case of closing the stable door after the horse has bolted. Being a believer that prevention is better than cure I've laid out some top tips to keep your fingers primed for crushing.
Quickdraws: What to look for and a few recommendations
- Article
- 10 February 2012
- No comments










