Alpine & Winter Climbing

Mounting an Expedition to the Greater Ranges

More of a how-to guide than a story, this article gives an overview of the key stages in planning your first expedition. The information presented here is a result of everything I learnt on an expedition to Pakistan last summer where we attempted to make a first ascent of a difficult new route on Tahu Ratum (6651m).

Arctic Norway - The Land of the Midnight Sun

In Northern Norway, within the Arctic Circle, there is an amazing collection of islands where massive lumps of clean granite tower out of the sea.  This article focuses on two of the main climbing areas, Kvaloya and the Lofoten Islands.

Canada - A Winter Wonderland

For many years I had wanted to spend a winter season in Chamonix, ice climbing, skiing and alpine climbing.  However a friend showed me photos of Canada and  instantly a plan began to form to spend two months in Canada.  The Canadian ice climbing season seems to span from October to late April.

Which Ice Screw?

Sat here on a grey and rainy November day in the Lake District the thought of ice climbing on a crisp sunny day seems far removed given the present weather. None the less the winter season is more or less upon us and so I thought it might be useful to run through the pros and cons of the various ice screws that we at Rock and Run have on offer.

Winter Gear Tweaks

Not surprisingly, winter climbing conditions are looking very promising for the rest of February. If you're planning on heading north in the next few days here are a few gear tips which are simple, effective and will save you time and money.

Super Shroud - Grandes Jorasses

I have told the story behind this picture numerous times down the pub but never ever written anything about it. It’s not the kind of tale that would ever end up in print but it had a big influence on my climbing career and its a bit of history that might not otherwise be told.

Climbing in Val Masino, Italy

Val Masino offers a wide range of climbing from bouldering, bolted sport routes, trad style cragging to long alpine rock routes all on fantastic granite.

Scottish Winter Climbs

There's no need to prevaricate about the quality of this guide – it's good, really good. In fact I would say along with the new Rockfax Lofoten guide this is one of the most inspiring guides I have ever picked up.

Via Ferrata

For those unfamiliar with the predominantly European pastime of Via Ferrata, this is a method of exploring the more exposed and less accessible parts of the greater ranges – and more commonly the Southern Alps – with little in the way of technical rock climbing equipment or knowledge.

Swiss Arete, Mount Sill

Swiss Arete on Mount Sill is another High Sierra classic with a long walk. You can see the route from the road (395) but it looks a long way off and its difficult to work out the exact line of the route. The combination of glacial scenery, high altitude climbing on perfect rock and a remote setting make this a must do route.

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