Bleaustone Training Range Review

Bleaustone Training Range

 

History Lesson
Originally founded in Sheffield, back in 2003, Bleaustone was the realisation of a dream had by two climbers, both of whom had served and finished apprenticeships in hold manufacture and design with two existing hold producers. With an aspiration to make the highest quality, most ergonomic and fun holds to use, the pair set forth toward their goal, using for inspiration the unique holds and rock formations of that most famous of all bouldering destinations, Fontainebleau.

Sadly, after a number of successful years establishing and building the brand into one of the UK’s foremost hold manufacturers, various reasons conspired and the owners were forced to sell Bleaustone, and the mantle was passed to the parent company of leading Slovenian hold manufacturer Lapis. Following the finalisation of the sale, production left the Steel City, and all operations were moved to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Fortunately however, Lapis recognised the genius which lay within the Bleaustone brand and design ethic, and took on one of the original founders, and the man responsible for many of the now highly recognisable hold designs seen in climbing walls throughout the UK, to head up hold development after the brands’ Eastern European "re-boot". As an aside; the other half of Bleaustone’s original founders went on to set up yet another successful hold manufacturer, in the shape Core Holds, which is still based in Sheffield. So overall a net gain for the climbing community!

Materials
As of 2010 Bleaustone holds are now made from Polyurethane, rather than Polyester Resin, the more traditional material for making climbing holds. So what does that mean to you? Well basically, Polyurethane is a stronger more flexible material than Hold designingPolyester Resin, meaning it is less likely to crack or chip if over tightened or dropped. It is also reputedly more environmentally friendly and safer (when in liquid form) to work with for the manufacturer, and thus a more ethically sound substance. In terms of downsides, it is a more costly material, and this may explain why some hold manufacturers seem considerably cheaper than others. Anecdotally, some say the friction can be less good on Polyurethane holds, particularly at high or low temperatures. However, I have no experience of this.

The Holds
 Bleaustone’s description: Each [Training Range] set has been designed with an emphasis on clean lines and simplicity; here you will find basic geometric shapes with rounded edges to prevent unnecessary skin damage or bruising - to enable you to achieve the goals of your training programme unhindered.

30 Degree PocketsBleaustone’s Training Range is my favourite series of holds for use on a training or systems board. With the possible exception of well made wooden holds, I find the Training Series to be the best option from both a versatility and skin-friendly point of view, whilst most holds are also very good from a space saving perspective - an important consideration when you’re building a training board with a finite space. I have used every hold set in the Training Range over the last 6 years or so to some degree or other, and over that time I've formulated a pretty good idea of how you can get the most of each set. The following is a list of the sets available with my take on how to best utilise each set and an idea of the base ability level you will need to get the most out of it on varying angles.

30 Degree Jugs (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
These small jugs are the bread and butter of a good warm problem on any angled training board, or as a point of respite on a harder problem. If inverted they also make great undercuts. The 30’s are also extremely skin-friendly, making them usable even with battered hands, whilst as alluded to above; they also take up minimum space. I would suggest all climbers could benefit with at least one set of these holds on their board.

30 Degree Pockets (Number of holds per set: 6) - Purchase Online
The ideal pocket set for all training facilities of 30 to 50 degrees overhanging. Designed to promote open-handed use, these pockets are a pleasure to pull on and have one of the most finger-friendly radii I have seen on any pocket sets available. Each set offers three pairs of mirrored holds – 3-finger, 2-finger and monos – which can be put to good use in either a systems set-up or non symmetrical board. If used with fair sized footholds, their inclusion will be suitable for most climbers (providing you warm up correctly) on boards angled up to 30 degrees. However, once beyond this angle a base ability level of around 7a/V6 would be advisable, particularly when using the monos.

45 Degree Slopers (Number of holds per set: 4) - Purchase Online
Possibly my favourite holds in the series, the 45 degree slopers are awesome grips! 45 Degree SlopersAs the name would suggest, these slightly incut slopes are most suitable on boards of 45 to 55 degrees in steepness, particularly if you climb 6c+/V5 or above. When using this or any similar type of hold: try to use your thumb as little as possible, as not doing so can hoodwink you into thinking your sloper strength is better than it actually is, as you are effectively applying a horizontal pinch rather than sloper grip.

45 Degree Jugs (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
A deeper slightly larger version of the 30 degree pockets, these again make excellent warm up holds or good undercuts. Probably overkill on boards under 45 degrees if used in ‘jug mode’ however, you could do a lot worse than using a few of these as undercuts, particularly as start holds; as this optimises the length of your board, plus they are also hard to stand when inverted, and thus help work your core and back.

Dished Crimps (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
These crimps have a dished profile, and are considerably harder to hold than a standard flat. Excellent holds for stronger climbers using 20-30 degree boards, although these crimps are almost useless on boards of 35 degrees and steeper, other than as intermediates or footholds. Climbers operating below 7a/V6 will find these holds hard to use on all angles steeper than vertical.

Eying up the 45'sFlat Pockets (Number of holds per set: 6) - Purchase Online
Again pleasant to use, the flat pockets are superb for use on boards up to 35 degrees, although a reasonable base level will be required to get the most out of them. They can also be used as a progression from the 30 degree pockets (being identical in design bar offering a shallower angle) on boards of 45-50 degrees; however a base level of at least V8/7b would be required to use them effectively.

Flat/incut Crimps (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
Being slightly incut, but with a flat profile, these crimps are comfortable to hold and train on for extended periods. Having said that, like the Dished Crimps, they are still hard to use on steep boards and aren’t really worth purchasing for boards steeper than 30 degrees, other than if you have some specific purpose in mind.

Positive Crimps (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
Probably the best crimp set option for 45+ degree angled boards; these crimps offer a nice set of fairly uniform holds and make for excellent systems/symmetrical problems, whilst also being great on a less ordered setup. On boards beyond 30 degrees users will require a solid base level (7a/V6) to get the most out of these holds; however their friendly radii and texture make them a good smaller hold to work on, with a decreased chance of injury.

Rounded Crimps (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
By far the hardest of the crimps to grapple on a steep board, and not really suitable for boards/walls steeper than 10 degrees, unless for some specific purpose or as footholds.

Small Pinches (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
In terms of the positivity of both the small and medium sized pinch sets, they are fairly similar (varying from flat to ever so slightly incut), and it is only really the actual size and shape of the holds which differs. I like some holds in each set, but not all, and this in my view is one of the hold types which could be improved. That said, they are still nice grips and can be used effectively by most users on boards up to 50 degrees, although at this level of steepness a good base level (7b/V8) is required.

Medium PinchesMedium Pinches (Number of holds per set: 5) - Purchase Online
In terms of the positivity of both the small and medium sized pinch sets, they are fairly similar (varying from flat to ever so slightly incut), and it is only really the actual size and shape of the holds that differs. I like some holds in each set, but not all, and this in my view is one of the hold types that could be improved. That said, they are still nice grips and can be used effectively by most users on boards up to 50 degrees, although at this level of steepness a good base level (7b/V8) is required.

Standard Slopers (Number of holds per set: 4) - Purchase Online
These glorious slopers require ‘real sloper strength’ and utilising them in a full open hand position will help improve your ability to move between poor slopers out on the rock no end. These holds will feel extremely hard on steep boards beyond 40 degrees, and even on lesser degree angles a solid base level of sloper strength will be required!

Symmetrics (Number of holds per set: 10 or 20) - Purchase Online
These are, as the name suggests, a symmetrical set of holds and are the smallest positive edges in the Training Range series. They are designed to be used in a systems setting and most of the holds do not lend themselves to being used in a more random layout. For those unfamiliar with a systems board, these holds enable ladder-like problems to be created and thus mirror strength gains to either side of the body.


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