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Dosage V
- 19/9/2008
- Categorized in: Bouldering Videos, Publications, Reviews, Videos
BigUp productions continue their popular Dosage series with Dosage V, the fifth in the series.
For those of you who've never seen a Dosage film you can, in BigUp, expect to see the work of one of the better climbing film producers. Each DVD is split into multiple short films (doses), with each 'dose' being a self contained unit of entertainment following a theme which usually culminates in an important ascent. For those in the know, you will once again see that the usual high standard of filming and the canny ability of being in the right place at the right time to capture some amazing sends, with the usual mix of big numbers and big characters.
Dosage V focuses mainly on bouldering, with five of the eight 'shorts' being solely bloc orientated. On top of the proliferation of bouldering there are two sport climbing sections and one major trad (unfixed protection) ascent. Below is a short summary of each of the 'doses'.
The Valley
New Boulder Problems in Yosemite Valley with Tommy Caldwell and Randy Puro.
A good range of problem styles around the V11/V12 grade range. Fear not die hard climbing film fan, it may be the valley, but for once, there's not a single ascent of Midnight Lightning - which has seen enough filmed ascents to last a lifetime. This section is very well filmed with good music.
Yangshuo
Unexplored Limestone in Southern China.
Sport Climbing with Michael Fuselier and Axel Ballay. Probably the most relaxed dose of the DVD, though don’t let the atmosphere fool you, the sport routes look good and hard.
On the Fringe
Features Dave Graham, Tyler Landman and co, and it's all about the psych, hanging out and hard bouldering. Located around the Horse Shoe Canyon ranch in Arkansas (featured in Dosage III).
A Muerte
Dosage wouldn’t be Dosage without a bit of Sharma somewhere in the mix. In 'A Muerte' Chris is filmed along side Dani Andrada, Paxti Usobiaga and Daila Oieda in Spain. Its big sport grades galore, with Chris on some of his 9b projects. Also filmed is the impressive hybrid bouldering/sport route Ali-Hulk (9b) climbed by Dani Andrada.
Secrets of the East
New England bouldering. There are some serious highball problems in this dose and, as usual, plenty of big numbers from the likes of Paul Robinson and co.
Mission: Albarracin
Bouldering in Albarracin. Spanish sandstone bouldering with Jason Kehl and Chris Linder. A quick-fire dose of multiple problems.
Alpine Blocs
RMNP (Rocky Mountain National Park) seems to be one of the 'in' places at the moment. This section offers a selection of excellent looking boulder problems in one of Colorado's and the U.S's most picturesque settings; culminating in the modern classic Jade (V15).
Meltdown
The climatic finale to the DVD. BigUp leave us with Beth Roden and her journey to climb Meltdown in Yosemite. There is a good build up with Beth climbing the classic routes The Phoenix (5.13a), Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Peace (5.13c/d), and Book of Hate (5.13d). Then on to Meltdown itself (suggested by others to be 5.14c (8c+). For those that missed the news of this lines' ascent, back in March 2008, it is one of the most difficult climbs in Yosemite (if not the world) and features thin crack climbing on marginal gear.
Extras
There is plenty of worthwhile additional footage in the 'extras' section of the DVD, including the second ascent of Jade, and more hard sport routes in Spain.
Summary
Overall I would say that this DVD is a good watch, although maybe not quite as addictive as some of BigUps previous offerings. This, in my view, is due to a couple of the 'doses' feeling a little bit flat when accompanied by exceptional sections, such as Meltdown,and Alpine Blocs (my personal highlights). However if you took each dose on its own they still would rate highly.
It's good to see other climbers than the usual suspects of Sharma and Graham on DVD's, especially the likes of Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Beth Roden who seem to be pushing the boundaries as well as the aforementioned superstars.
What's also good about the Dosage series is their effort to film something new, whether it's the latest test pieces and projects, or the more obscure destinations. This theme repeats with Dosage V alongside the continual inspiration of seeing something new (well it has inspired me anyway), and will no doubt be re-watched on many occasions.
As star ratings are the usual yardstick by which films are judged, I would, if pressed, give Dosage V a 4 out of 5 - a very good watch, with repeat viewability and the usual inspirational vibe.
Purchase Dosage V here.




