I was looking for a comfortable shoe that I could use on multi pitch trad routes (upto HVS) and moderate bouldering. Performance is always important but in this case I was prepared to compromise some performance in exchange for comfort. No one can wear super tight rock shoes all day and its often more enjoyable to get some after work mileage in on easy routes and bouldering without having to hobble between routes/problems.

First Impressions
The La Sportiva Scorpion is instantly comfortable and sensitive on fairly small holds. I didn't have any problems in wearing the shoes on a multi pitch route for several hours straight out of the box.

Fit
The relaxed heel fit was a relief after wearing Scarpa Visions for extended periods. Granted the compromise was less precise edging than the Vision but my achelles was a lot happier. The slip lasting allowed a close fit with little bagging of the upper at the arch or on the top of the shoe. The variable width lacing means that you can tighten the shoe sufficiently without having to bind your foot to the sole.

Sizing
I bought the same size as my street shoes and I think that was about right for the type of climbing I wanted to do in the Scorpion's. They have stretched sightly but by no means excessively, that said I could have possibly dropped an extra 1 Euro size.

Image: Bouldering at The Taliesin Area, Fairy Steps.


Recommended Usage
Excellent for long, classic, mountain routes and easy bouldering. Buy them the same size as your street shoes or possibly 1 size down for grades up to HVS. Alternatively drop 1 to 2 sizes if you want to climb in the low to mid 'E' grades. Equally this shoe would be a good choice for a beginner with no danger of your ability overtaking the technical limitations of the design.

The Scorpion is no longer available but for other La Sportiva products see here.