I think it’s fair to say; that over the last few years, the Rab Neutrino Endurance has become ‘the’ duvet (UK climber slang for down jackets) of choice for most British climbers. Since its introduction to the scene, around 4 to 5 years ago, this piece has become staple viewing at most UK crags, throughout the winter months. The jacket offers a superb blend of low weight, high fill-power and slick cut, without compromising durability and function.

Aimed at the higher end user, the Neutrino Endurance is designed to tackle all but the most heinous winter conditions – think Scottish winters, year-round Alpine use, and serious ascents up to 6500m. The keen aesthetics, clean finish and lightweight packable nature of the jacket, have given it as much a following with the winter cragging/bouldering clique, as with the more traditional techy down jacket market of mountaineers.

Features
When it comes to features, Rab have put some serious effort into the design of Neutrino Endurance, combining minimalist chic with all the necessities we’ve all come to expect in a technical duvet - Velcro-adjustable cuffs, two-way zippers (easy access to your harness and belay device), two external hand pockets with weatherproof zips, super cozy wired hood (which is peaked and easily adjustable), an internal pocket and stuff sack.

Specifications
Construction-wise the jacket uses a box wall design, rather than the traditional stitch-through method; meaning you don't get any cold spots along the stitching lines. The baffles – which are also closer together than some other jackets – hold the down in place, so it doesn't migrate and leave any sections uninsulated.

Rab use Eastern European goose down which is generally better quality than the Asian variety, used in many lesser jackets. The shells are constructed in China, then tenderly hand-filled with 96% pure white goose down, in the UK. The duvets are then shipped and stored un-stuffed, to help keep the down at a premium for when it gets to the customer (storing down stuffed for extended periods can permanently damage the lofting of the down). The fill power rating of Neutrino Endurance, is 750+ (EU) and 850+ (US), meaning that the jacket’s core fill captures a greater volume of air, or more specifically,
warm air – result: you stay warmer.

The internal fabric is Pertex Quantum – the lightest Pertex fabric available – weighing approximately 30g per squared metre. Externally the jacket is encased in Pertex Endurance fabric (50g per metre squared) which is windproof, breathable and the lightest water resistant Pertex available.

Below: Tom Dixon preparing breakfast in the Texan desert, after a cold January night.


The Fit
The fit is a very good, active cut – shorter body with a drop seat, for use with a harness – and I had no complaints. I have read in other quarters that the neck can be slightly narrow for the well built, and thus a bit tight, however I encountered no such problem. Overall adjustment is good and effective without being over the top. The hood is also well fitting, has a wired peak, is easy to adjust, and works very well with a helmet.

Performance
As well as the UK, I have used the Neutrino throughout winter in the Utah/Texan desert, California’s High Sierra’s, and also in Alpine winter and summer conditions. As with all down jackets, the warmth of the garment is reliant, in part, on relative air moisture. In cold dry conditions the jacket is supremely warm, and as stated above, will be sufficient in all but the most extreme conditions. From new, the garment is also pretty water resistant, and will take the brunt of even harshest downpours, with no lasting effects. However with time, and more specifically usage, the Pertex’s DWR treatment will deteriorate/wear off and with it the water resilience of the jacket will start to falter.

Summery
A great down jacket for most activities, due to its lightweight and packable nature, great fit, good features and smart look - the people’s champion!

Purchase the Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket here.